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Nem Sài Gòn – Gói mùi, cuốn vị đất phương Nam

35 năm đã qua đi kể từ ngày miền Nam hoàn toàn giải phóng, nhưng cứ mỗi dịp 30/4, không ít người lại nao nao nhớ về không khí sục sôi hào hùng thuở nào của dân tộc. Trong nỗi nhớ ấy, có lẽ dễ gợi mở cho người ta nhớ đến một món ăn mà tên của nó đã được xếp vào hàng “tinh hoa ẩm thực Việt” – món nem Sài Gòn.


Sài Gòn nay là thành phố Hồ Chí Minh - hòn ngọc của viễn Đông. Sài Gòn, từ trong đấu tranh, bom đạn, áp bức... vẫn vươn lên như một thành phố phát triển nhất cả nước. Đã đành nổi tiếng với sự phồn hoa đô thị, nổi tiếng với phong trào “tân thời”, “văn minh Âu hóa”... nhưng Sài Gòn còn rất nổi tiếng với món nem đậm đà bản sắc dân tộc, ngay đến người nước ngoài cũng ưa chuộng gọi nó một cách trìu mến “nem Sài Gòn”.

Nếu ví hambeger, spagetty, boocdo, salad... là sự "đổ bộ" ồ ạt của văn hóa phương Tây sang nước ta, thì nem Sài Gòn giống như "ngọn cờ đấu tranh" tiêu biểu của quân dân miền Nam. Tên gọi của nó gắn liền với mảnh đất đã sinh ra nó, chẳng khác nào lòng yêu nước, quyết tâm đánh giặc vẫn luôn thường trực trong trái tim con dân đất Việt. Hơn cả một món ăn, nem Sài Gòn còn mang trong mình ý nghĩa sinh tồn và đấu tranh của dân tộc.


Khen thay cho bàn tay ai khéo léo đã làm nên món nem thật thơm ngon, hấp dẫn chỉ từ những nguyên liệu hết sức giản đơn: nào thịt lợn băm nhỏ cho vị ngọt, mộc nhĩ – nấm hương – hành lá mang lại vị thơm, một chút thanh mát tạo nên từ cà rốt – su hào, vài cọng miến cho thêm phần cứng cáp... trộn đều tất cả, quện với nhau bởi béo ngậy của trứng cùng gia vị. Thế rồi đem cuốn trong tấm bánh tráng tuy mỏng manh nhưng mềm mại dẻo dai, chiên lên chín vàng trong dầu mỡ. Khi thưởng thức, không quên kèm theo một bát nước chấm thật ngon, ăn cùng bún hoặc bánh cuốn đều được. Thế mới thấy, chả trách các “ông Tây - bà Đầm” khi đô hộ nước ta, dù rất muốn xóa bỏ hoàn toàn những giá trị truyền thống dân tộc, nhưng lại khó cưỡng cho được sức cuốn hút từ hương thơm và mùi vị quyến rũ của món ăn này.


Nem Sài Gòn – ngon và rất hấp dẫn! Đúng! nhưng nếu chỉ có thế, nó chưa đủ trở thành lý do để người ta nhớ đến mỗi dịp kỷ niệm 30 – 4. Có một sợi dây vô hình đã gắn kết hai vấn đề tưởng chừng như chẳng hề có chút liên quan ấy lại với nhau, tạo nên một ý nghĩa thật thú vị. Trước ngày giải phóng miền Nam, đất nước ta vẫn chưa được thống nhất, chính trị đã trở thành rào cản chung cho mọi hoạt động trao đổi giữa hai miền, từ con người, của cải cho đến cả ẩm thực. Thời khắc lá cờ đỏ sao vàng tung bay trên nóc dinh Độc Lập ngày 30 -4 , cũng chính là thời khắc nhân dân cả nước vỡ òa trong niềm vui sướng tột cùng. Không còn khái niệm phân chia: của Nam – của Bắc mà đã trở thành “của Việt Nam”. Nhìn từ góc độ ẩm thực, sự kiện này đóng vai trò vô cùng quan trọng. Phở Hà Nội đã theo chân bộ đội giải phóng mang sự bình yên, nồng ấm nghĩa tình gửi tặng miền Nam, nem Sài Gòn cũng cuốn vị mến thương làm quà cho đất Bắc. Sự giao lưu ẩm thực, nhưng cũng chính là sự gắn kết tâm hồn.

Ngày nay, ta hoàn toàn có thể dễ dàng tìm thấy những quán nem Sài Gòn nổi tiếng thơm ngon ngay tại Hà Nội. Một món ăn được cả người dân Việt Nam và bạn bè quốc tế yêu thích.


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